Luxury Malta travel: Valletta, Mdina, Gozo, & beyond

Malta is three islands, a language nobody else speaks, and seven thousand years of everybody wanting them. The Phoenicians, the Romans, the Arabs, the Knights of St John, Napoleon and the British navy all held this harbour, and every one of them left something behind. You can stand in Valletta and see the whole argument at once.

The capital is a grid of golden limestone laid out by knights after the siege of 1565, small enough to walk end to end in twenty minutes and dense enough that you will not. Mdina, inland and uphill, is the old capital: walled, almost car-free, and known as the silent city for good reason. Gozo is slower again and greener, with a temple complex that predates the pyramids by a thousand years. And the water around all of it is startlingly clear, which is why the Blue Lagoon gets photographed to death and still looks like that when you arrive.

Malta rewards a handful of decisions that are hard to make from a distance. When to be in Valletta, because the cruise ships unload into it by day and it becomes a different city after six. Whether to base yourself on Malta or on Gozo, which changes the entire character of a trip. Which of the megalithic temples deserves your morning, because there are several and they are not equally extraordinary. Which boat reaches the caves and the coves the day trips never get to. And where to eat, because Maltese cooking has changed enormously in the last few years and the kitchens doing the interesting work are not the ones on the harbour front.

Two things make Malta unusually easy for American travelers. English is an official language alongside Maltese, a legacy of British rule, so nothing about the trip requires translation or nerve. And there is now seasonal nonstop service from the United States, which did not exist a few years ago. Seasonal routes come and go, so check with your airline for current nonstops when you are planning.

Three or four days is enough to fall in love with Malta, which is exactly why I almost always build it alongside something else. Sicily is an hour and three quarters away by fast ferry and makes the natural pairing: two Mediterranean islands shaped by completely different sets of invaders, close enough to compare and different enough to be worth it. Rome is ninety minutes by air, so Malta also slots onto the beginning or end of a longer Italy trip without anybody backtracking.

Below are the Malta trips I build most often. They are starting points, not scripts, and each one gets rebuilt around the people travelling. If what you want is not here, a stay on Gozo alone, a diving week, a food-led trip, or Malta added to an itinerary you are already planning, tell me on our call and I will design it from scratch.